Published 29th Oct. 2025
Written by Meg MacMahon
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Southeast Asia is a favourite for first-time travellers – safe, welcoming and easy to explore. Yet all too often, Cambodia is the casualty of the Indochina loop, with many simply dropping in to see the (admittedly awe-inspiring) Angkor before moving swiftly on.
On my first visit, I was guilty as charged. But my return visit changed everything. Cambodia, I realised, has come of age. It’s no longer the ‘add-on’ destination, but a country that demands time, rewards curiosity and offers depth, warmth and discovery at every turn. Explore Cambodia off the beaten track and you’ll find tangled jungles, meandering rivers, bustling cities, floating villages, idyllic islands and some of the most warm-hearted people on the planet.
In the heart of Siem Reap, the vast complex of Angkor temples stands resilient, with stone ruins locked in constant combat with jungle roots. And, while Angkor Wat is the undisputed crown jewel, I was here to seek out some of Siem Reap’s unsung counterparts: Krol Ko, Banteay Prei, Neak Pan, Ta Som and Ta Nei.
I confess to being someone who suffers from ‘temple fatigue’ – but not here. The sheer beauty, atmosphere and history of Angkor is spellbinding, and thousands of years of history seem to hang in the air. In May, during shoulder season, I found myself alone in all but one of these temples – a rare privilege thanks to my guide’s insider knowledge. The sweet silence was only interrupted by monkeys shuffling across crumbling archways and stone serpent carvings.
Image by Meg MacMahon.
Leaving Siem Reap behind, we travelled through the remote province of Ratanakiri. This region embodies Cambodia off the beaten track, with untamed jungles, waterfalls, cashew plantations and tribal villages bordering Laos and Vietnam.
Here I met Han, a local Bunong guide. He emerged from his house wearing sweat shorts and – somewhat unexpectedly – an Arsenal shirt. He grinned, gestured towards a makeshift wooden trailer attached to a tractor, and said simply, ‘we go.’ After a bumpy ride, we arrived at the house of the village chief, deep in the jungle and perched above the river. Crossing the river on foot, Han showed us how to drink water from tree trunks and taste jungle herbs. Our survival crash course concluded with us carving bamboo cups to take home.
Lunch was enjoyed with the chief and his family: a traditional dish of chicken, herbs, vegetables and chillis steamed inside bamboo and poured onto banana leaves for hungry hands to tuck into. In Cambodia, sharing food is a sort of love language – as we left, every house we passed called out to us: ‘have you eaten?’. It’s the most Cambodian of greetings, and a true reflection of their warmth.
Image by Meg MacMahon.
Phnom Penh might just be the most underrated capital in Southeast Asia. Its bustling markets, leafy boulevards and cosmopolitan energy reflect a deeply complex past, making even a one-night visit well worth it. The street art scene, dominated by female artists, is particularly striking, with many of the murals addressing political, environmental and cultural themes. In Boeung Kak – an area infamous for forced evictions and redevelopment – street art has become a peaceful form of protest and self-expression.
Our first stop was breakfast at BKK Market. I marched through a cacophony of noise, smells and colour, past buckets of live eels, piles of vibrant vegetables and hanging carcasses, to a mother-daughter run stall to enjoy a steaming bowl of num banh chok (Khmer noodles). Breakfast is taken seriously in Cambodia, and this was easily the most delicious meal of the trip: fresh noodles, rich sauce and just the right amount of spice. I’m a firm believer that the best flavours in Southeast Asia are found in street eats – ditch the hotel buffet and slurp up breakfast noodles instead.
Image by Meg MacMahon.
Next stop: the Cardamom Mountains. I arrived by sampan (flat-bottomed boat) at Canvas & Orchids Retreat, a floating eco-lodge on the Tatai River. Remote and tranquil, it’s the kind of place where you're encouraged to slow down and match the pace of nature. Mornings brought conservation talks and jungle hikes to hidden waterfalls, while afternoons were for kayaking into the sunset from my private pontoon.
Deeper into the mountains you’ll find Shinta Mani Wild, where eco-tourism, conservation and luxury come together (there’s even a zip-line over the Tmor Rung River, landing at a cocktail bar). However, it’s the lodge’s commitment to local impact that truly shines. The Shinta Mani Foundation supports 22 villages in Cambodia, offering education and employment opportunities galore. Many of the staff at Shinta Mani Wild have come through this programme, resulting in a solid team supported from the ground up.
Cambodia’s finale? The idyllic, jewel-like islands strung across its southern coast. They’re every bit as nice as Thailand’s finest, minus the crowds and with a far greater commitment to sustainability. The properties here focus on ocean clean-ups, community employment and low-impact luxury.
On Koh Rong Island, find powder-white sand, turquoise waters and fiery sunsets. Song Saa Island and Six Senses Krabey, on the other hand, offer something a little more Robinson Crusoe matched with private island style – the dictionary definition ‘barefoot luxury’.
After days of trekking, temples and tuk-tuks, it’s the perfect way to unwind – the proverbial cherry on top of the delectable Cambodia cake.
Image by MegMacmahon.
Want to learn more about Meg's trip to Cambodia? Head to this blog for the inside scoop.
Written by Meg MacMahon | Header Image by Olivier Romano.
Having spent years living, working and travelling in Cambodia, our passionate consultants have a wealth of firsthand knowledge to apply to every aspect of your trip. From designing new ways to tour ancient Angkor without the crowds to arranging sunset drinks with a view, we tailor each detail to you. Whether visiting the jungle, cities or coast, we work with some of the best guides in Cambodia, who can bring your dream trip to life. Be it organising a temple treasure hunt or a Khmer cooking class, our teams always go the extra mile. In-country, our helpful Concierges are just a call away to ensure your trip runs smoothly.
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It’s no surprise that Cambodia is known as the ‘Kingdom of Wonder’. Whether it’s the awe-inspiring temple complex of Angkor Wat, the postcard-perfect beaches, the characterful capital city of Phnom Penh, or the strength of a nation emerging from tragedy – Cambodia is a spectacular destination. But when it comes to cuisine, Cambodia’s varied culinary traditions are often overlooked in favour of its more prolific neighbours, Thailand and Vietnam.
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On a recent research trip to Cambodia, our Asia specialist, Meg, discovered the country’s authentic side. From visiting lesser-known Angkor temples to participating in anti-poaching missions, she experienced things many travellers miss out on and is eager for you to be in the know. Read on to discover what made Meg’s trip to Cambodia so memorable… Where did you visit? During my 18 days in Cambodia,
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