Sea, Springs and Volcanoes in Southern Japan: Kyushu and the Goto Islands

On arrival in Tokyo, you’ll hop straight onto another flight, albeit a much shorter one this time. Your first destination in Japan is Fukuoka, an exciting coastal city on Kyushu Island, a two-hour flight away. From the airport you can board an ultra-modern train and head into the city centre. Check in for one night in a modern hotel in the bustling commercial district of Hakata and after taking a moment to settle in and freshen up, head out and explore the city in the company of a friendly local guide. Fukuoka has made a name for itself over the years as a city that values openness, dynamism and a forward-thinking outlook. The walking tour is laid-back, spontaneous and adapted to your wishes. We immersing yourself in some Japanese culture. You could watch a kabuki show (classic Japanese theatre), catch a baseball game, listen to some J-pop or tuck into motsunabe (meat and vegetables stewed in a clay pot). Fukuoka is also home to a host of beautiful cultural sights, including the ninth-century Tôchô-ji Shingon temple and the Fukuoka Art Museum, which houses Dali’s ‘Madonna of Port Lligat’. This evening, head back to your hotel for a hearty meal and a good night’s rest.

After a relaxing morning (and perhaps a lie-in to help with the jet lag) it’s time to get moving again. Head back to the train station and settle in for a two-hour ride to Nagasaki. When you arrive, check in for a two-night stay in a modern and comfortable hotel in the heart of the city. The rest of today is yours to play with. You can spend the afternoon relaxing at the hotel or head out to soak in a bit more culture.

Just as you did in Fukuoka, this morning you’ll be heading out with a local for an informal tour of Nagasaki. Founded by the Portuguese in the 16th century, this city has its roots in Japanese Christianity. The religion was initially welcomed, before being persecuted under the Tokugawa and later reaccepted during the Meiji era. The best way to gain an insight into the religious history is through the architecture. Your guide will take you to the Urakami Cathedral, a neo-Romanesque cathedral which was rebuilt after suffering intense damage after the atomic bomb that was dropped here in 1945, and the Kôshi-byô, a Confucian temple and shrine dedicated to the gods of military arts. Alongside its unusual religious history, Nagasaki also exhibits a rich culinary heritage. Champon is the region’s signature dish, a Chinese-inspired broth made with pork, seafood, vegetables and noodles. There is also toruko rice, a pilaf-style dish that incorporates a mixture of rice, pasta, breaded pork chops and local curry spices. As for dessert, the go-to is castella cake, a dish brought over by Portuguese travellers.

It’s time to switch things up today as you leave the cityscapes behind and journey into the heart of rural Japan. After a delicious breakfast this morning, head to the port to catch a speedboat across the East China Sea to Fukue, the largest and most southerly island of the Goto archipelago. On arrival, collect your hire car and drive to your accommodation on the island: a beautiful camp nestled in nature. The rest of today is yours to play with. You can kick back and relax in the camp or head out to discover your new surroundings. Our Concierge can help you arrange everything from fishing and paddle boarding to diving and boat trips. This evening, settle in for a delicious meal based on the island’s seasonal produce.

Today is dedicated to discovering the charming island of Fukue with a cycle ride led by a private local guide. This is a great opportunity to soak in some of the island’s idyllic scenery, which forms part of the wider Saikai National Marine Park. The coastline is rugged and unspoilt, characterised by dense green vegetation, white-sand beaches and impossibly steep cliffs that merge beautifully with the rich royal blue of the ocean beyond. The island is peppered with small fishing villages filled with the old streets and houses of yesteryear, and a number of UNESCO-listed churches that evoke the turbulent history of Japanese Christianity. Fishing is the number one activity here, which, naturally, has had an influence on the island’s cuisine, with oysters and sea urchins appearing on most menus. Head back to your camp this evening for another hearty meal and a good night’s rest after your busy day.

Enjoy one last slice of island life this morning before boarding a speed boat back to Nagasaki. Once you’re back on dry land, make your way to the train station to catch a train to Yufuin, a town known for its hot springs and spas. Settle in for two nights in a beautiful ryokan, a traditional Japanese inn. Spend the rest of today relaxing in nature, before tucking into a tasty meal this evening.

The landscapes that surround Yufuin are as serene as they are dramatic. The village lies at the foot of Mount Yufu, a 5,000ft stratovolcano that looms large over the valley’s emerald green rice fields. There is also Lake Kinrin, where locals enjoy meditation sessions on the tranquil shores. We recommend heading there first thing in the morning, when a gentle mist envelops the lake. There is also the delightful café of La Ruche, located right on the lake, which attracts visitors with its natural dishes. Beyond its nature, Yufuin is well-known for its onsen, a term used to describe both hot springs and spas. In the evenings, however, it’s the temples that take centre stage with their tranquil atmospheres and tinkling bells. You have all of today to soak in as much nature and beauty as possible before leaving for Kurokawa tomorrow.

This morning, collect your hire car and drive an hour and a half to Kurokawa, a hot spring town perched on the outer slope of the Aso caldera. This caldera is home to Mount Aso, one of the largest volcanoes in the world and one that is fairly active. Access to the volcano itself is not always possible, but when it is, it is well worth climbing. Once again, you are surrounded by onsen, with bathing establishments lining the banks of the Black River. Settle in for one night in a ryokan and spend the rest of today sampling life in the town. You can head to one of the many hot spring spas before tucking into a delicious meal based on the local cuisine this evening.

After a few days of pampering, it’s time to leave the spa towns behind and discover some new landscapes. Head off this morning for Akimoto, a delightful village near Takachiho, an hour’s drive away. Check in for the night in a modern but cosy minshuku, a Japanese-style bed and breakfast. After settling in a freshening up it’s time to get exploring. Just south of Takachiho is the seriously picturesque Gokase Gorge and the Manai Falls. You can canoe on the river or walk along the walls on footbridges, admiring the sheer stone cliffs and the emerald vegetation that clings to them. For a dose of culture, head to the Shonen-ji Buddhist temple, a Jôdo shinshû school of Japanese Pure Land Buddhism that was founded in the 16th century at the foot of Mount Genbu. There is also the Ama-no-Iwato Shinto shrine, which is dedicated to the sun goddess of Amaterasu.

After a hearty home-cooked breakfast this morning, hop back into your hire car and drive three-and-a-half hours to Kagoshima, a beautiful seaside city overlooking the Sakurajima stratovolcano in the south of Kyushu Island. Settle in for two nights in a modern hotel which is well situated for discovering the city. Enjoy a delicious meal in the hotel’s restaurant this evening before curling up for a good night’s rest after a day on the road.

Standing at the foot of Sakurajima, it’s impossible not to think about Pompeii. Kagoshima’s 600,000 residents live under the watchful eye of Japan’s most active volcano. However, the locals here have something the Pompeians could only dream of: monitoring equipment able to accurately predict and prevent any destructive activity. Today, travellers from near and far come to gawk at this megalith of nature and to eat the radishes and mandarins that flourish in its soil. Sakurajima can now be reached by car and toured by bus, but it is forbidden to step within just over a mile of its summit. You can also head to the volcano by ferry from the terminal in Kinkô Bay, which doubles up as a great place to go shopping for local specialities. For something less adrenaline-inducing, the beautiful Sengan-en garden, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is well worth a visit too.