Tangier, Chefchaouen, Asilah: Road Trip Through the Morocco of Artists

Tangier is both African and European, Mediterranean and Atlantic; from Cape Spartel, Spain is just seven-and-a-half miles away. It’s easy to fall under the spell of this city, just as creatives like Ernest Hemingway, Truman Capote and Jack Kerouac did. Children play in the kasbah, women wash clothes in the fountain, and from up high on a terrace, you can take in stunning views across the water – the medina runs all the way to the sea.

Today, we’ve arranged for a walk through the city in the company of a local. Tangier has seen novelists, artists and adventurers travel from far and wide to seek inspiration here, and it’s in their footsteps that you’ll get to know this fascinating city. From the Villa de France to the places painted by Matisse, Barbara Hutton’s sublime Palace Sidi Hosni to Place du Petit Socco, visited by Tennessee Williams and Ian Fleming, you’ll experience this city’s inescapable creativity through its unmissable cultural venues and artists’ studios.

This morning, pick up your rental car and drive on to Chefchaouen. The journey should take around two hours. Dominated by the peaks of the Rif mountains, this city is one of the most famous in Morocco thanks to the bewitching blue colour of its buildings, streets and pathways. Chefchaouen’s winding alleyways converge on Plaza Uta El Hammam, where you can sip tea in one of the many cafés and admire the magnificent Grand Mosque. You’ll spend two nights here in the heart of the medina. After a day’s exploring, relax with a drink on the cool patio or the elevated terrace.

Founded in the 16th century, Chefchaouen is symbolic of the region’s turbulent history. Originally built to defend against Portugese invasions, it’s home to a thriving medina that showcases traditional Moorish architecture. During a private tour of the medina today, stroll through cobblestone alleyways lined with charming white and blue houses before reaching the lively Uta El Hammam square. As you walk, your guide will recount tales of this beautiful and historically significant city. The rest of your time here is yours to spend at your leisure. At the gates of the city, you’ll find Talassemtane National Park, perfect for escaping into nature to embark on a scenic mountain hike.

Today, jump back in your rental car and drive for just under two hours until you reach Asilah. You’ll spend two nights in a riad built in traditional style, where you can admire copper moucharabiehs and woodwork carved by craftsmen from Fez. Enjoy a cup of mint tea by the swimming pool to relax after your journey.

Asilah is a pretty city on the Atlantic coast whose old town rubs shoulders with the ocean’s waves. With its whitewashed houses, picturesque alleyways, many art galleries and plentiful street art, the city has a distinctly creative atmosphere. Your final day in northern Morocco is your chance to experience it. Wander through the maze of passageways to the Bab al-Homer main gate, admire the Portugese Alqamra Tower or the Great Mosque, and visit the 20th-century Palais de Raissouli which is now a cultural centre. When you’ve finished sightseeing, head to one of the area’s beautiful sandy beaches for some well-earned relaxation, or take in the superb view from Borj Krikiya, which overlooks the ocean on one side and the ramparts of the old town on the other.