Published 16th Jul. 2024
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Rachel, part of the specialist team at our aptly named sister brand, Original Diving, recently ventured into Indonesia’s watery world for a diving research trip. Along with checking out the super-luxe beach resorts dotted along the coasts of Bali, Sumbawa and Flores, she tried her hand at muck diving and learnt about the important process of coral transplantation. Eager to dive into Indonesia’s marine world? Read on to learn all about Rachel’s adventure into the big blue.
After flying into Bali, I headed to some lesser-known, quieter areas where a few gorgeous diving resorts are based. The ones I visited were Alila Manggis on the east coast, Siddartha Oceanfront Dive Resort on the north-east coast and The Menjangen on the north-west coast. I then flew to Bima, a city on the island of Sumbawa, before driving to Kalimaya Dive resort in the east. I spent three nights here before taking a ferry to Labuan Bajo, a fishing town on the island of Flores, where I stayed at Sudamala Komodo, Komodo Resort and Sudamala Seraya.
Aside from receiving tours of the resorts, I did a lot of diving – around 20 dives in the two weeks I was there. In addition to diving, a private guide showed me around some temples and markets while transferring from the fishing village Tulamben to The Menjangen resort. He was extremely knowledgeable and I learned a lot about Balinese culture. I also visited the Komodo Islands where I met the biggest lizards on earth...
The people! The staff at the resorts are incredibly kind and helpful, going above and beyond to make sure their guests are happy. The diving was also some of the best I’ve ever experienced. While there’s news of coral bleaching and dying reefs across the oceans, I witnessed areas where the underwater world is still thriving, which was reassuring to see.
Yes, I found an alternative to Komodo’s hugely popular Pink Beach – the deserted beach at the Kalimaya dive resort. The sand is the most gorgeous shade of pink, and you’re completely alone. It was one of the best surface intervals I’ve ever had between dives.
When I stayed at Siddartha, I ordered the traditional chicken satay. It was quite an experience to watch it arrive at the table sizzling over hot coals (and it tasted delicious, of course). I also loved the variety of tropical fruits, and happily snacked on papaya and tried snake fruit for the first time.
While staying at Sudamala Seraya, I spent an afternoon with Coral Guardian, a non-profit organisation that taught me about the process of coral fragmentation and transplantation. We put our snorkelling gear on and collected fragments of healthy coral using a pair of pliers, before transplanting them onto metallic structures. After three to four months, the fragments eventually fuse to the structure and grow into a healthy reef.
Muck diving in Tulamben, which involved searching the black volcanic sands for weird and wonderful creatures often overlooked when diving – I saw frogfish, seahorses and sea slugs. It’s a great activity if you’re a keen macro photographer and want to snap detailed pictures of tiny sea life.
If you’re travelling to southern Bali between July and September, head to Nusa Penida to look for Mola Mola (Ocean Sunfish), one of the largest bony fish in the world. I was a month too early, so don’t make the same mistake as me!
I was surprised at how different each area of Indonesia felt between Bali, East Sumbawa and Flores. Each had a different religion, language, culture and vibe – it felt like visiting three different countries.
If you do a Komodo island tour (which you definitely should), bring a pair of trainers. Even if you just use them for this tour, you’ll do a lot of steps and will thank yourself later.
Images by Rachel Gaw.
While Indonesia is (quite rightly) a tourist magnet, you can explore a side of the islands that often goes unseen with our team’s insider knowledge and connections. That might come in the form of an eco-snorkelling tour in Lombok, guided by fishermen who previously worked in the shark-fishing industry. Our savvy in-country Concierges are just a WhatsApp away, eager to recommend their favourite tried-and-tested experiences. We’ll even take the admin out of travel by arranging e-visas and the Bali Tourist Tax before you go, so you can enjoy Indonesia’s rice terraces, temples and beaches in peace.
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