Ski, Eat, Sleep, Repeat: A London to Zermatt by Train Ski Itinerary

It's an early start this morning as your train to Zermatt leaves Lausanne just before 9am, so grab a quick breakfast and make your way to the station. The journey takes about three hours in total, with a quick change in Visp onto a smaller narrow-gauge train, but with the unbelievable scenery to gaze at through the window (try to sit on the left to make the most of it), you’ll find yourself wishing the journey was longer. Snake through the towering mountains that seem to disappear into the sky and pass by quaint villages as you make your way up to Zermatt, where you’ll arrive just before lunch.

On arrival, check in to your hotel, where the Concierge can help you collect ski gear and passes. We’ve included a three-day Zermatt ski pass in your itinerary, so if you want to hit the ground running, head straight for your first afternoon on the slopes. Alternatively, have your first taste of the (excellent) Zermatt foodie scene with a high-altitude lunch.

After you've had your fill of snow, it's time to enjoy the après ski. Most of Zermatt's later evening entertainment is under one roof, that of the Hotel Post, with its five bars and clubs. Warm up with a Swiss Mojito (Poire Williams, ginger ale, lime, mint and sugar) in the laidback Papa Caesar lounge before heading to the barrel-vaulted brick cellars of the Broken Bar for dancing on wine barrel tables to 80s Europop.

If you’d rather have a relaxed morning to explore Lausanne before heading to Zermatt, this can be arranged too. This itinerary also works well in summer, swapping skiing for spectacular hiking and mountain biking.

After breakfast, you can appreciate Zermatt in all its glory with the help of an expert ski instructor. This picture-perfect resort in the shadow of the Matterhorn is almost stupidly idyllic, from its car-free (except the odd electric cab and bus) cobbled streets to the charming old chalets that line them. Aside from aesthetics, Zermatt is home to outstanding high-altitude skiing across 220 miles of marked runs, as well as excellent off-piste. Benefitting from near guaranteed snow from November through to April, the local glacier means skiing throughout spring and summer is possible too.

Today, you'll be in the hands of a knowledgeable ski guide who will take you to Zermatt's most beautiful slopes. Offering as much or as little ski instruction as you like along the way, this is the perfect chance to improve your technique. Worked up an appetite? Zermatt is arguably as well known for its gastronomic delights as for its skiing, so stop for lunch in a mountain lodge, and you won’t be disappointed.

Work off the lunchtime excess with a few more runs before returning to the resort for an après-ski drink in the small but perfectly formed Harry's Ski Bar, which has been, by turns, a house, a glorified chicken coop and now the most buzzing bar in town. Lederhosen-wearing bar staff and skiers straight off the ski bus come as standard, and when it's packed inside you can order from the patio bar. Come dinner, our Dossier is on hand with insider tips on the best of the resort’s restaurants. We recommend Chez Vrony as your first port of call, a charming farmhouse where the equally charming owners dish up home-grown produce.

Today is yours to ski until your heart's content. While conditions in Zermatt are generally more reliable than most, some ski areas don't even open until the end of January. Exhibit A is the Stockhorn, which takes longer to build up the necessary snow reserves. It's well worth the wait, though, with enough moguls and deep stuff to keep the biggest bump monkeys and powder-hounds happy. Make sure to appreciate the views; they are impossible to tire of. Zermatt is surrounded by some 38 12,000ft plus peaks and, as you'd imagine, any number of viewing points. One of the best is from the top of the Europe's highest cable car to the summit of the Theodul glacier. From here it's possible to the see the highest peaks in Italy (Gran Paradiso), France (Mont Blanc) and Switzerland (Monte Rosa) and a south-facing view of the Matterhorn.

For lunch, we recommend Findlerhof, further down the Sunnegga piste from Chez Vrony. The views of the Matterhorn from the sun terrace are nearly as excellent as the food and service from the team, led by owners Franz and Heidi. Try the braised lamb washed down with whatever excellent local wine Franz recommends.
This evening, take your pick from hundreds of excellent restaurants. If we had to choose one, it would be 1818 (once the hugely popular Heimberg), a charming chalet that retains many of the traditional features of one of the oldest buildings in town. Local architect Heinz Julen has added tasteful contemporary touches from the art to the lighting and chairs. The food also blends the traditional and modern, so expect exceptional sushi and tagliata steak cooked on the charcoal oven.