Gaining access to the Yaxchilan site is notoriously difficult, meaning very few visitors make the trip. However we have had a word with our Mexican friends, and have managed to pull a few strings. A 6am start is required for this trip as the brightly coloured murals are best seen when the sun is on them. The breakfast stop alone makes the early start worth while – freshly made quesadillas, eggs and
bread at Valle Escondido en route to Bonampak are truly delicious. The site of Bonampak is owned by the Lacandon people, so entry to the site must be made in one of their own vehicles. On arrival at the river, which acts as the border between Mexico and Guatemala, visitors board a private boat and take a 45 minute boat ride down the river to the site of Yaxchilan, deep in the jungle. Once at the site, there are mazes and tunnels to navigate through and, although much of this site is yet to be excavated, there are still temples to climb.

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