Highlands, Glaciers and Volcanic Deserts: A Wild Iceland Road Trip

Today, you'll drive north along the famous Kjölur track, which stretches between the Hofsjökull and Langjökull glaciers. Steeped in history, this route was used in the early days of the island's colonisation. The drive takes around two-and-a-half hours, but there are plenty of places to break up the journey along the way, including Lake Hagavatn (overlooked by the Langjökull glacier) and Lake Hvítárvatn, located at the source of the Hvítá river.

Kerlingarfjöll is part of an active volcanic system and known as an adventure-seeker's paradise. You'll spend two nights here in a comfortable mountain chalet. Refuel after your drive with a delicious dinner this evening at the on-site restaurant.

The Kerlingarfjöll mountain range – or 'Witch Mountains' – is made up of high-altitude volcanoes covered with patches of snow and small glaciers. These rhyolite domes were formed during sub-glacial eruptions, and make for a wild setting that's a hiker's dream.

While you're here, you can embark on the Hveradalir Hike, a seven-and-a-half-mile round trip that offers breathtaking views and should take between four and five hours. From the refuge, take a footbridge spanning the Asgarosa River before setting off on a well-marked path that climbs along the ridge towards the plateau, then to the summit of Mount Mænir, which dominates the Hveradalir valley. In good weather, you can enjoy clear views of Kjölur to the north and Lake Hvitarvatn to the west.

Today, you'll hop back in your hire car and drive north until you reach Akureyri. Break up this four-hour journey with a stop near Hveravellir's exciting geothermal field. Akureyri is a charming city bordered by the marvellous Eyjafjörður Fjord. You'll spend one night here in a comfortable hotel with a contemporary Nordic style.

The Askja volcano is the next stop on your road trip through Iceland, but not before a stopover at the etherial Goðafoss Waterfall, whose name means 'the waterfall of the gods'. You can also visit Myvatn, one of the most active volcanic regions in the country and a protected nature reserve.

When you reach Mödrudalur, you'll set down your suitcases for two nights on a farm that's the highest and most isolated in the country, perched at over 1,500ft. The church was built in 1949 by the farmer at the time in memory of his wife, and it was once home to a weather station. Today, the farm has a few rooms and two traditional chalets.

Shaped by millennia of glaciation and volcanism, these Icelandic Highlands may be inhospitable, but they're breathtakingly beautiful. Today, spend some time discovering the immense lava desert of Ódáðahraun, approximately 1,700 square miles; in its centre sit the Askja volcano and the Herðubreið table mountain. This is Iceland's wildest and most lunar landscape, where traces of vegetation and water sources are almost non-existent. We say almost, because following the major eruption of 1875, a large caldera was formed, now filled with a lake where you can swim. A little further north is Herðubreið, which the Icelanders call 'the Queen of the Icelandic Mountains' thanks to its beautiful shape; its summit is around 3,280ft above sea level. At its foot are the Herðubreiðarlindir Springs, which stretch out as far as the eye can see. This bucolic setting of rivers and vegetation stands out amid the vast desert of stone and sand.

It's time to swap desert landscapes for lush green valleys as you move on to the village of Egilsstaðir today. We'll arm you with tickets for Vök Baths when you arrive, which are natural hot springs that are less touristy than those in the south-west of Iceland. Comprising several hot-water pools sourced from springs under Lake Urriðavatn, this state-of-the-art facility blends perfectly into the landscape and promises total relaxation in a world of earth, fire and ice.

When you've had your fill of soaking and enjoying the view, head to your hotel that's nestled in the forest about half an hour's drive away.

We recommend a walk around Lagarfljót Lake today, where you'll find one of the country's most incredible waterfalls: Hengifoss. Just a short hike will take you to this dizzying site where the Brekkuselslækur stream flows from the top of a cliff and crashes 400ft in a breathtaking spectacle. Below it, you'll find the Litlanesfoss waterfall and its superb basalt columns. To the south-west of Egilsstadir is the Hallormsstaður Forest, where you can enjoy the mysterious atmosphere of this protected area that occupies nearly 5,000 acres. Explore it via numerous trails that lead you between waterfalls, streams and over 80 different species of tree.

 You'll drive on to Höfn today, but you can break up the four-hour journey with a stop at the East Fjords. Lying outside the classic tourist circuits, this region is an attractive combination of wild landscapes and more sunshine than the rest of the country. The Mjóifjörður is one of the most beautiful fjords here, and you can access it via an unpaved road with a few tight hairpin bends. The tiny fishing port of Brekka and its small church are the only evidence of human presence in this grandiose landscape, which is even more magical at dusk. At the entrance to the east fjords, the charming little town of Djúpivogur has a peaceful seaside atmosphere. You'll know you've arrived when you see the drying racks for fish located along Route 1. Breiðdalsvík is another small fishing village on the coast, an extension of Breiðdalur, the widest and longest valley in eastern Iceland. It's full of geological curiosities and hiking trails along with the famous Breiðdalsá salmon river. You'll spend the night in the countryside just outside of Höfn, facing the majestic Vatnajökull glacier. Inside your hotel, the view from the restaurant and bar is spectacular

Your next stop is Kirkjubæjarklaustur, about three hours away. So you can have a break from driving, we'll plan a kayaking trip for you on the Heinabergsjokull lagoon. In the company of a guide, you'll glide peacefully across the water at the foot of the majestic Heinaberg glacier. This is a great opportunity to learn a little more about the glacier's surroundings and discover its landscapes from a different angle.

There are plenty of other things to get stuck into while you're here. In Skaftafell (part of the Vatnajökull National Park), multiple scenic trails lead you to Vatnajökull's glacial lagoons and offer spectacular views of Hvannadalshnúkur, Iceland's highest peak that stands at 6,923ft. An easy hike also leads to Svartifoss, a small waterfall surrounded by beautiful basalt columns. Near the stunning Jökulsarlon lagoon, seals and Arctic terns play hide and seek among blue-black-and-white icebergs and an amphitheatre of glaciers and snow-capped peaks. Don't miss a walk along the edge of the lagoon, or the magnificent black sand beach where icebergs run aground. Wilder and less well-known, the Fjallsárlón lagoon is also worth the detour. Here, there are fewer icebergs but you can come much closer to the glacier. If you're lucky, you'll also see (and hear) the seracs falling into the water in front of the Fjallsjökull glacier

While you're in the area, don't miss a visit to the Laki Craters, formed at the end of the 18th century along a 15-and-a-half-mile fissure. This eruption, considered one of the largest in history, resulted in 130 craters that emitted 52 billion cubic feet of lava. Explore this fascinating area via the visitor's trail, or hike up to the peak of Mt. Laki for unforgettable views.

After about two-and-a-half hours of driving today, you'll reach Landmannalaugar. This mountainous massif is an emblematic area of wild and untamed Iceland, known for the coloured rocks that cover the landscape, thanks to the area's geothermal activity. While you're here, hike through the reserve to make the most of the region's volcanic landscapes. We recommend the ascent to Bláhnjúkur and Brennisteinsalda, an adventure through streams, gorges, lava flows and sulphur pits.

When you've finished exploring, continue your drive to Hella where you'll spend two nights in an old farmhouse that's been transformed into a hotel. Enjoy dinner in your accommodation's restaurant this evening as you gaze out at the landscape through the large bay windows.

In this picturesque region on Iceland's south coast, it's easy to fall under the spell of small villages like Vik or Skogar: small houses grouped at the foot of vertiginous cliffs that offer fantastic views of the Eyjafjallajökull and Myrdalsjökull glaciers. Nestled between glaciers and the Atlantic Ocean, the area is also home to some of the most beautiful waterfalls on the island, starting with the scenic Seljalandsfoss. Skogafoss, meanwhile, is nearly 200ft high and is a nesting site for fulmars in the summer. Climb the staircase to the right of the waterfall and make your way along the river from fall to fall. If you like, we can also arrange for you to take a guided hike on the Solheimajökul glacial tongue so you can experience walking on ice.

Before you make your way to Reykjavík today, head to the historic Thingvellir National Park in the heart of the Golden Circle. Known as the site of Iceland's parliament between the 10th and 18th centuries, it's also an exceptional natural geological site. As you walk through the park, discover Lake Thingvallavatn, the largest natural lake in Iceland, and the many trails around it that lead you into the beautiful countryside.

When you've had your fill of hiking, you'll continue west to the effervescent city of Reykjavík. There's plenty to see and do in this artistic capital, and we recommend a stroll around the downtown 101 district and the main street of Laugavegur. Here, you can wander between brightly coloured houses, cafes, galleries, showrooms, design shops and concept stores, perhaps picking up a virgin wool blanket or piece by an emerging designer to remember your trip by. For something a bit different, climb to the top of the modernist Hallgrimskirkja church, or visit the Arbaejarsafn in Kistuhyl, an open-air architectural museum where you can discover what the Icelandic capital looked like at the beginning of the 20th century. The Marshall House is another great spot. This former herring factory was opened in 1948 and financed by the Marshall Plan, but is today an exhibition space for artist collectives. Whatever you decide to do on your final day in Iceland, round off your adventure with a taste of Brennivin: an Icelandic spirit made from potatoes and caraway. You'll spend your last night in this incredible country in the heart of its capital. Your modern hotel comes complete with cosy rooms and a sauna.