Published 28th Jun. 2021
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The Mani Peninsula, the tip of the middle finger on the spindly hand of Greece’s Peloponnese, is still largely untouched by tourism. The relative inaccessibility of this rugged place made it the land of refugees and feudal villages; its inhabitants had to be hardy and inventive to survive. Now, a thick tongue of tarmac carries you smoothly between villages, so as long as you can keep your eyes on the road and not on the views, this area of the Peloponnese is eminently travelable. Discover our guide to exploring the beauty of the Mani Peninsula.
1. Getting There
2. Beautiful Beaches
3. Ghost Towns of Mani
4. Diros Caves
5. Chapel of Odigitria
6. Ancient Monemvasia and Aeropoli
Catch an early morning flight to Kalamata to begin the journey to the Mani Peninsula. Then head for the picturesque coastal village of Gerolimenas, breaking up the three-hour drive with a stop at Kardamili. Filled with frothy pink and white geraniums, this pretty town was made famous by the soldier and writer Sir Patrick Leigh Fermor, who travelled the Mani and stayed here for the remainder of his life. Watch basket weavers and cats lounge by the pebbly beach as you tuck into a banquet of sardines, stuffed tomatoes, sumptuous butter beans and Kalamata olives. Back on the road, look out for tower-crowded villages decorated with delicate geraniums and gnarly olive trees, each guarded by blood-red, iron-rich walls.
Of course, any trip to Greece must involve a visit (or multiple visits) to the beach. The Mani Peninsula is no exception to this rule, where rocky coves and sandy stretches pepper its rugged coastline. Head back up towards Kardamili to visit the beautiful Foneas and Pantazi beaches for curved bays with crystal-clear waters and golden sands. If you’re after something more remote, drive up the east coast towards Alypa Beach, a secluded gem where smooth pebbles replace sand and tiny fishing boats bob in the transparent waters. Also on this side of the peninsula is the shingle beach of Skoutari, a haven of tranquillity backed by a domed Greek church and whitewashed taverna.
Local walks abound and can be ambitious (but are worth it). Follow the old Kalderimis stone mule paths through the mountains of the Mani Peninsula, where it's eerily quiet. Scrambling through this inhospitable landscape, scattered with prickly pears, you can see why the Maniots believe they are direct descendants of the Spartans. Efforts are rewarded when peeping through a window of one of the many Byzantine churches that remain in this area, as tantalising frescos gleam back through the dark. You’ll be hypnotised by the heat and silver-grey shimmer of olive trees as you march through the ghost towns to the incessant hum of the cicadas. With the mouth of Hades reputedly not far away, you’ll be relieved to be back sipping Aperol Spritzes by sunset.
An absolute must is a visit to the nearby Diros Caves. Gliding through caverns aptly named 'The Cathedral' and 'The Crossroads of Nymphs' you’ll feel as if you were gliding across a ballroom of the underworld. Stalactites and stalagmites form unearthly statues in this journey which conjures the river Styx. Be sure to take an extra coin under your tongue for the ferryman on your journey back…
A walk to the temple of Poseidon and Cape Tainaron allows you to explore well-preserved Roman mosaics and take in spectacular views of the Aegean sea. The rocks just beyond the lighthouse mark the southernmost point of Europe. One of the finest walks in the Mani Peninsula is to the magical tiny 12th Century chapel of Odigitia, set high on the mountain side. Swing open the rusty iron door and appreciate the deep sense of peace as you trace the frescos decorating every wall. Behind the chapel, hermit caves are carved into the rock where there is evidence of bread ovens and fire pits.
Although not strictly in the Mani Peninsula, taking a road trip to the fortified Byzantine town of Monemvasia is well worth the two-hour coastal drive for the stunning views alone. Join diners sipping beer in the square, in front of a colourful tapestry of houses, shops and tiny churches. Most tourists congregate here so there are plenty of souvenirs to buy: think mead honey wine, smooth olive wood bowls and flowing linen shirts. Eat lunch at Chrisovolou Restaurant for unparalleled views and excellent Greek cuisine. The ancient town of Areopoli is another must-visit on your Mani adventure. On your drive back from Monemvasia, stop off at the historic town for dinner; with its traditional stone houses, it’s a beautiful place to stroll cobbled streets and explore charming churches. There's a wonderful atmosphere in the main square and great moussaka at the very reasonable Barba-Petros.
We have travelled all over mainland Greece and its island-studded ocean to seek out the best spots, allowing us to plan truly bespoke trips. Whether touring the Acropolis with an art historian or meeting seasoned ceramicists at a local workshop, we work with the best local guides to help you get under the skin of Greece. We know how to avoid the crowds and the heat (like only booking Olympia tickets after 4pm), while our clued-up Concierges are our eyes and ears on the ground, offering insider tips on the hottest tickets and newest openings. This means we can recommend hidden island hideaways before the masses find out about them...
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