Published 7th May. 2025
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On a research trip to Egypt, our Content Manager, Ella, soaked up the storied sights lining the banks of the Nile onboard the Flaneuse du Nil. Elegant and intimate, this traditional dahabieh sailing boat journeyed from Aswan to Esna, leading her to archaeological hotspots and ancient temples. She explored the sandstone quarries of Gebel el-Silsila, admired ancient carvings in Kom Ombo and dined like a Pharaoh on the sailing boat’s sundeck. Keen to learn more? Read on for the highlights from Ella’s trip...
So many places! The itinerary was a wonderful mix of famous sites – such as Philae Temple, Kom Ombo and Edfu – and lesser-known wonders such as Gebel el-Silsila, an ancient quarry which supplied the sandstone for many of Egypt’s most famous temple complexes.
Image by Mathias Depardon
I enjoyed lots of private tours of ancient temples. Our private guide Ahmed, who was with us for the duration of the cruise, led the way and shared fascinating stories about the sites. In Gebel el-Silsila, he drew my attention to tunnelled out rock where horse reins were once secured and chisel marks in the stone from when it was being quarried that were so clearly defined they could have been made yesterday, not 4,000 years ago. Back on board, I simply spent hour after hour gazing out at the Nile. It’s like watching an old movie playing out in real time as sleepy villages and lush farmer’s fields drift by.
Image by Ella Mawson
When the crew unfurled the sails. On the shorter cruises (three days rather than six), the Flaneuse is pulled by a tugboat for efficiency. But for an hour or so I experienced the tranquillity of being propelled by wind power alone. It made the experience of drifting along the Nile even more magical.
Image by Ella Mawson
Kom Ombo is far from a secret spot, but our trusty guide, Ahmed, revealed another side to this famous site. He drew my attention to details I'd otherwise have missed, from hieroglyphics detailing religious rituals and royal decrees to reliefs depicting surgical instruments (he explained that in ancient times, the temple contained a sanitorium where people sought cures from the temple priests). The stories he shared brought history to life before my very eyes.
Image by Olivier Romano
It’s tough to choose just one, but my sundeck lunch was particularly delicious. Like every meal onboard, it was a spread fit for a Pharoah, with freshly baked baledi bread, flaky feteer pastries stuffed with cheese and a smoky serving of baba ghanoush. Heavenly.
Image by Mathias Depardon
I stayed in one of the Flaneuse’s seven elegant cabins. They are old-world oases – think antique furnishings, pristine bed linens, hand-woven carpets and white wooden shutters. And fittingly, they’re named after famous oases like Farafra (in the Western Desert) and Fayoum (in the Sahara).
Image by Mathias Depardon
The timing of my visits to Egypt’s ancient sites wasn’t coincidental at all, but entirely by design. Drawing on their local knowledge, the crew had meticulously planned the itinerary to arrive at the temples and tombs when they were at their quietest. And there I was, thinking it was luck.
Image by Ella Mawson
The day-to-day scenes that unfold on the Nile. I would often retreat to the shaded linen sofas with a cold drink (essential in the heat) and enjoy the ever-changing views, from children splashing in the water to farmers working in the fields and even a wedding party dancing onboard a small motorboat. The sunsets are also unmatched. In the evening, I would admire as the banks of the Nile looked like they’d been drizzled with honey and the spiky palm trees formed inky silhouettes against the orange-streaked sky. It felt like moving through a painting.
Image by Ella Mawson
During private tours, prepare to be the sole targets for the local children selling woven bracelets and papaya bookmarks. While it may feel a little overwhelming at times, it’s an important reminder that Egypt is still very much a living, breathing country. Embrace the experience and entrepreneurship of the young locals.
Image by Ella Mawson
Header Image by Arthur Regnier / Studio Bergoënd
When it comes to Egypt’s Nile, we’ve secured full bragging rights with exclusive access to the Steam Ship Sudan, the last of the authentic paddle steamers which also served as inspiration for Agatha Christie. If it’s the lesser-known sites you’re after, we can instead bag you a cabin onboard the Flâneuse du Nil, a traditional dahabieh sailing boat that plies the Nile. We’ve also got the best guides under our belt for exclusive access to the Pyramids, temples and tombs of Egypt, and our handy app is home to an ever-growing list of tried and tested shops, restaurants and more.
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