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Count Kalnoky’s guesthouse is located in Miklosvar, a village populated almost exclusively by ethnic-Hungarian Szecklers.
The style is distinct from the Saxon villages only a few miles away with less emphasis on defensive fortifications and none of the telltale 'broken' roof ends that are a throwback to the architecture of the Saxons original homeland.
There are two rooms in the main house, another two in an adjoining outhouse, and a further six in an annex five minutes walk away. The annex is based around a small garden with a well, and has a billiards room and sauna on hand.
The rooms themselves are done up in traditional Hungarian style, with Dutch ovens and authentic furniture. The bathrooms are a little on the functional side, but the overall effect is charming.
The cosy main house is decorated with locally woven rugs, coats of arms as reminders of the owner's aristocratic heritage and has a very homestay feel. In spring and summer the evening ritual is for all the guests to congregate on benches overlooking the main street to watch the village herd of cows come off the hillside and down the street before turning off into the farmyards of their homes for milking. They know exactly where to without any prompting.
After this spectacle of an ancient agrarian tradition, guests themselves wander down into the cande-lit cellar of the house past wine racks full of local vintages to enjoy an evening of communal dining. The food (and wine) consists of excellent quality versions on Hungarian classics.
Activities on offer include cultural tours of the village (including the old Kalnoky hunting lodge, where there is yet another en suite bathroom), riding and trips to forest hides to spot bears in the wild.
Why we love it
Transylvania only became part of Romania in 1918, so there are still large pockets of ethnic Hungarians in the area, of which Miklosvar is one. You will probably not hear a word of Romanian during your stay here
Molly, Original Traveller