Classical cities & the Sahara

The coast of Libya has been colonised by everyone from the Phoenicians, ancient Greeks and Egyptians to the Italians in the 20th century, but it was the Italians' forefathers the Romans who left behind the most impressive reminders of their presence.

Even before the recent revolution Libya was off-limits to independent travellers for many years. We look forward to declaring Libya as open for exploration again.

Either side of Tripoli are the ancient cities of Sabratha and Leptis Magna, arguably the most impressive classical ruins in the whole Mediterranean. Together with Tripoli (originally known as Oea) these were the ‘three cities’ of the Roman province of Africa from which modern Tripoli takes its name.

Remarkably well preserved by the desert sands, Leptis Magna in particular is perhaps the most complete surviving example of a Roman city. Its forum, baths, circus, amphitheatre and triumphal arches are all the more spectacular for being framed by the blue Mediterranean.

The other great attraction of Libya is the stunning scenery of the Sahara. In the far south-west of the country are the dramatic landscapes of the Akakus Mountains, the vast ‘sand sea’ of the Murzuq Dunes, and the picture-perfect, palm-fringed oases of the Ubari Lakes. Getting there requires a bit of effort, but it’s well worth it.

The mountains also contain rock art dating back thousands of years. These paintings and engravings were made at a time (not that long ago in geological terms) when the Sahara was lush and fertile, and are dramatic evidence of previous climate change on planet Earth.

Back in Tripoli, there are souqs to shop in, and the Red Castle and Jamahiriya Museum to visit, the latter containing some of the finest artefacts recovered from the classical ruins.

Those with more time can travel over the Jebel Nafusa mountain range, with its troglodyte villages, to the ancient town of Ghadames. This town was the starting point for caravans setting off across the Sahara, and its narrow alleys and baked mud dwellings are like something out of Star Wars.

Last but not least, the ancient Greek city of Cyrene, with its magnificent Temple of Zeus, can be reached by flying to Benghazi on the north-eastern coast.