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Ski the Arlberg

Austria

It was here, on the slopes of the Arlberg massif, that Hannes Schneider, the son of a local cheese-maker, pioneered the development of modern skiing techniques in the early years of the 20th century.

Things have moved on a bit, and the touch-free electronic Arlberg ski pass means today’s skiers can enjoy 150 miles of perfectly prepared pistes and more than 120 miles of off-piste skiing and boarding slopes across the neighbouring resorts of St. Anton, Lech, Zürs, Stuben, and St. Christoph.

St. Anton, Austria’s flagship resort, ranks among the top few ski resorts in the world. Better suited to intermediate or advanced skiers rather than beginners, it is known for its challenging on-and-off-piste terrain. Some of the best off-piste is in Rendl and Stuben, but you need to wrap up warm if going to Stuben as temperatures here often dip ten degrees lower than the surrounding area. Snowboarders are also well provided for with an excellent fun park, and there are permanent racecourses for those who want to test themselves against the clock.

St Anton itself is compact, with a pedestrianised main street, and boasts arguably the best après-ski scene in the Alps. This draws a young crowd that likes to ski hard and party harder, and the glühwein flows into the small hours at the resort’s dozens of lively bars.

The other main resort in the Alberg is Lech, regarded as one of the most exclusive resorts in Austria. Despite this luxurious feel, Lech clings charmingly to its farming origins and remains a traditional alpine village.

The resort is divided into two halves by a river that runs down the main high street where there are exclusive shops, restaurants and wine bars.

Located in beautiful alpine scenery, the skiing around Lech is superb, with over 150 miles of skiable terrain. The skiing takes place between 4,500 and 8,500ft above sea level, and the resort is ideal for the intermediate skier while there are areas of off-piste that can be accessed by the more adventurous, a Fun Park for snowboarders, and 15 miles of cross country tracks.

The après ski is refined and revolves around champagne and canapés at the Ice Bar or the Champagne Bar at the Hotel Montana. Later on, the nightclubs Scotch Club Disco and Fux are normally heaving with party-goers.

By contrast, nearby St. Christoph is a small, peaceful alpine village that makes a good alternative for families or those seeking quieter surroundings. At 5,900ft, St. Christoph is one of the highest resorts in the Alps, which more or less ensures decent snow conditions. Beginners can take lessons at the excellent ski school.

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